V Steakhouse
our comments
Jean-Georges Vongerichten is one of the great chefs of the world, yet V Steakhouse seems less like a serious commitment than his other ventures. There's nothing wrong with the basic options for meats: The Niman Ranch NY strip steak was very good, nice and beefy, and very juicy, and the filet mignon was even better. To make it a trio of goodies, the Colorado lamb T-bone was first-rate in every way. But except for some wonderful warm corn pudding that was much fought over at our table and delicious tempura soft-shell crabs with Napa cabbage slaw, the rest of the meal was quirky or not particularly savory at all. One doesn't expect to find a "crispy pork roll with very hot mustard" on a steakhouse menu, and V's does nothing to prove it belongs there. Side dishes disappointed, from the potato skin things called "fripps" to the truffle croquettes. This place might work in Vegas, where Vongerichten already has a very successful steakhouse, but in Manhattan, set on the fourth floor of the Time Warner Center, it seems out of sync with other New York steakhouses. Too bad, because the beef and other meats are excellent.- April 2005
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