Town
our comments
Now that new hotels have become the arbiters of style in the Big Apple, hotel restaurants have become the hottest destinations for chic people in the know. While many deliver the requisite scene---often relegated to an adjacent bar or lounge---only a handful deliver the real goods: excellent food and refined service. Town is one of the few that does. The chef, Geoffrey Zakarian, is cooking in a style that is at once wildly creative and fiercely restrained in an exquisite, soaring modern space done up in tastefully plush, neutral tones. Should you get a reservation, you’ll be treated to dishes that are described in disarmingly simple, almost haiku-like terms such as skate/lightly poached/shinsu apples/lemon balm or veal tongue/Basque-style/roasted artichokes and radishes. Zakarian has improvised on the traditional cheese course, serving unusual composed dishes like Reblochon de Savoie/steamed date pudding/date molasses. Desserts follow the same pattern, like the intriguing sourdough chocolate cake/organic malt ice cream/pretzels.- April 2005
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