Sparks Steak House

210 E. 46th Street (between 2nd & 3rd Avenues), New York
(212) 687-4855.

Details
Overall 9.3
Food 10.0
Service 9.0
Atmosphere 9.0
Value 9.0

our comments

Most famous as the site of a mob hit that left boss Paul Castellano dead on the sidewalk, this stellar steakhouse is a cut above many of the others in ambience. An expansion into the space next door means your wait for a table usually is shorter than it used to be at this mahogany-paneled steak institution. We can’t fault the tender prime sirloin or juicy filet mignon, the lamb chops (three doubles) or the charred veal chop and the gargantuan broiled lobsters. The meats come unadorned, so order a side of buttery spinach or a baked potato. Desserts are just okay, but there’s a good dessert-wine list. Sparks has one of the best overall wine cellars in the city---and some of the fairest wine prices---which is a refreshing change from many steakhouses.

- April 2005

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