San Domenico

240 Central Park S. (between B'way & 7th Avenue), New York
(212) 265-5959.

Details
Overall 8.5
Food 9.0
Service 10.0
Atmosphere 7.0
Value 8.0

our comments

A serious Big Apple eater simply cannot skirt around San Domenico. With a two-decade lifespan, it has enabled its founder, Tony May, to nourish and pass the flame on to the next generation. Daughter Marisa, as she greets you with her irresistible Madonna smile, certainly knows she has to carry on the tradition but also that she must open the space to the breeze of change. San Domenico is famous for having propelled basic Italian food in America to a high level of quality. Chef Odette Fada has tailored a swift transition. She has been careful to not totally banish the old menu, leaving some of the highlights of the past for those nostalgic for ricotta and spinach. Her soft egg raviolo with truffled butter and her risotto with Parmigiano and beef glaze illustrate this successful evolution. She reaches her summit with the sea urchin-filled ravioli with scallop, tomato and pepperoncino sauce, which composes a bouquet of flavors exploding in the mouth. Although, as in any Italian eatery, a predictable tiramisù heads the sweets list, it is followed by a series of original desserts such as a successful concoction of polenta, hazelnut and chocolate. The wine list is mostly devoted to Italian wines, offering some exceptional bottles, at a price, of course. Captain Jonathan supervises a swift service. A prix-fixe pre-theater menu provides an opportunity for foodies on a budget to discover, or rediscover, the new style of Italian fare.

- April 2005

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