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our comments
Seafood calls for a delicate balancing act; the chef needs to allow the discreet tastes of fish and shellfish to come through while still throwing some flavorful bones to the diner. Rick Moonen’s kitchen, run by co-executive chefs Anthony Amoroso and Matthew Accarrino, largely walks that tightrope with confidence. A filet of firm, meaty Pacific sturgeon (farmed in northern California), ringed by a vibrant green circle of parsley purée, is a dish that continues to be prepared as you eat it. When you pierce the crowning poached egg with your fork, the yolk bursts and runs down to mix with a gribiche and capers, forming a rich yet subtle sauce. Lobster, so often roasted to rubberiness, is butter-poached so the meat is sweet and tender. Sometimes things get a little shaky: Exactingly cooked scallops languish on a plate with an unexciting accompaniment of rice beans, made yellow with saffron. Dessert can be a well-constructed confection like the layers of rhubarb, panna cotta and sorbets in the frozen tangerine soufflé, or a well-chosen variety of artisanal cheeses accompanied by dried figs and nutty breads. Ask for a seat in the rear skylighted dining room, the front dining area is a dark tube of a space, the lit turquoise wall creating the effect of being on a galleon in Disneyland’s Pirates of the Caribbean ride.- April 2005
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