Prune

54 E. First Street (between 1st & 2nd Avenues), New York
Telephone: (212) 677-6221

our comments

Prune may not be the most appealing name for a restaurant (it’s for the owner’s childhood nickname, not the fruit), but once inside any prejudice disappears. The room is appealingly "distressed" with rough-hewn wood walls and tables and touches like water glasses for wine, all of which manage to create a homey feel. Adding to that, the menu is handwritten and reads like a laundry list of the owner’s favorite foods. There’s no appetizer/entrée designation so diners can create a meal combining dishes in any order. For such a small kitchen (you can see the chefs hard at work from any of the tables in the dining room), the staff produces an impressive array of dishes. The range is broad, from a fresh bagna cruda to piping hot marrow bones served with toast to a mixed grill that comes with, among other items, kidney and merguez ribs and more. Many of the desserts will bring to mind a country kitchen, especially the butter and sugar sandwiches.

- April 2005

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