Oceana
our comments
For Oceana's success, credit must be bestowed for that to young-very young indeed-Cornelius Gallagher, who despite his youth has been around with a few culinary top guns. He plays well with pristine ingredients from the sea, but mind you, simplicity is not his cup of broth. The tender scallops are caramelized and served with green asparagus, dried cranberries and toasted nuts; the wild striped bass is pan fried with cèpes confits and served with celery root mousseline in a Banyuls wine emulsion; while the "loup de mer" (sea bass) swims in an essence of tamarind, coconut and coriander, and comes with glazed bok choy and rice. Well, that’s a lot of research, work and imagination. It’s also a lot of flavors and tastes that sometimes blur a bit the chef’s message. More straightforward, the pan roasted salmon roulade is a success with its well-matched peppered green apples and crushed olives in a red wine sauce. There’s a three-course prix fixe for $68 and a more expensive tasting menu with six courses. Desserts don’t reach the same degree of creativity.- April 2005
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