Montrachet
our comments
A pioneer of the TriBeCa restaurant boom, Montrachet’s food remains good---very good---even though a parade of men and women have worn the chef’s toque since owner Drew Nieporent opened Montrachet with David Bouley more than a decade ago (the pair parted less than amicably). Now prodigal son Chris Gesualdi (he left the restaurant in 1998, and returned in 2003) is executive chef. In the three simple, tavern-like dining rooms, we’ve enjoyed dishes such as braised tripe with roasted salsify and black truffles; sweetbreads with pea purée, porcinis and asparagus; and filet of dorade with braised leeks and chanterelles as well as the always-superb crème brûlée. Although prices can run high, Montrachet offers prix-fixe menus and à la carte choices that leave some of your dough in your wallet. And the award-winning wine cellar remains stellar under the care of sommelier Daniel Johnnes.- April 2005
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