Il Mulino
our comments
It would be best to fast for about a week before heading to this cozy Village spot. No sooner do you sit down than the waitstaff begins showering you with goodies: hunks of Parmigiano pried off a huge wheel, bruschetta topped with garlicky chopped tomatoes, fried zucchini and more. But before you start thinking you’re getting a bargain look at the menu, where entrées top the $40 range, and ask the waiter how much the special veal chop or lobster in garlic sauce will cost you. The wine list, too, is extremely expensive, but there is an excellent selection of Italian bottles. Although Il Mulino is unquestionably overpriced---especially considering the dining room is cramped and could use a facelift---it somehow seems worth it, oddly enough. And apparently we’re not alone in thinking so: It’s nearly impossible to get a reservation. The food is always good, the service solicitous and by the time you leave you feel like an honored member of a hallowed club.- April 2005
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