Esca

402 W. 43rd Street (9th Avenue), New York
(212) 564-7272.

our comments

Mario Batali’s foray into seafood has succeeded swimmingly with David Pasternak heading the kitchen. In the almost-tropical room of pastel walls, stone-tiled floor and urns spilling over with plants, the menu is all Southern Italian seafood. The "crudo" section is for food that’s as fresh as it gets: slices of raw fish are served with little more than a slick of olive oil and some spices that bring out every ounce of flavor. Octopus is grilled and served with rosemary-flecked Corona beans and magically light risotto comes flecked with crab and zucchini flowers.

- April 2005

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