Diner 24
our comments
The existence of Diner 24 is reason to cheer. This American food is proof that there are no bad dishes, only bad chefs, and chef Vincent Nargi has both a respect and a love for the kinds of dishes that usually get no respect. His mac ‘n’ cheese is made of elbow macaroni with creamy Emmental and Gruyère cheeses and a toasty breadcrumb topping. There is a fish taco made with mahi mahi, queso blanco, roasted pico de gallo and cranberry beans, and the chicken pot pie has a marvelous flaky crust and enough chicken and vegetables to satisfy any trencherman ready to burn off the roof of his mouth. The richness of the creamy sauce in which the pie's ingredients simmer is textbook perfect, as is the crispiness of the fried chicken with little buttermilk biscuits, horseradish coleslaw and chicken gravy. The meatloaf is terrific, made of ground duck meat with plenty of flavor and nicely lumpy mashed potatoes, wild mushrooms, carrots, peas and a duck jus---not something you'd run into at the Parnassus Diner or Mel's. French fries are very tasty, lavished with fines herbes, truffle oil and a Brie fondue---whoa! Desserts are all you'd hope for in a diner, including milkshakes, banana splits and good Key lime pie.- March 2005
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