Bottino

246 10th Avenue (between 24th & 25th Streets), New York
Telephone: (212) 206-6766

our comments

Walking into a restaurant where the bulk of the diners are the same nationality as that of the cuisine always instils confidence. In this case the traditional fare is Spanish, but not in the more widely known rustic style. The layout is simple and elegant but gold trappings give an upmarket quality while mood lighting accentuates the sparkling, romantic feel. This is a ‘Special Occasions’ restaurant. Shortly after being seated we were greeted by the drinks waiter wheeling a fully stocked trolley and were soom sipping a 2004 Pinot Grigio Colferai, a perfect compliment for the opening selection of tapas: Savoury chorizo sausages that crackled on the outside and which were teamed quite unusually with lentils. Very thinly shaved strips of light and delectable jambon serrano and foie gras, goats cheese and caramelised green apple, which was exotic and innovative, although the foie gras was a trifle uninspiring, albeit entirely palatable. Moving onto the starters we began to feel excited by what lay ahead when our waiter explained to us the use of a revolutionary food preparation method called Spherisphication. Apparently food types are mixed with with Alginate Calcium Chloride then liquefied and reconstituted into the shape of the original item. To illustrate the process we were given a sample starter dish of peas. They were looked like a normal pea, but once consumed delivered a nectareous sensation. It was interesting and impressive. Moving on, a Chilean Montes Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 containing a heady blackcurrant overtone put us in a sombre mood. The Poached Eggs with a whipped, sponge like texture served with mash seemed almost out of place in a restaurant like this, but it was welcomed as unconventional. The Lobster Salad was a delight. Refreshing, and served with mouth watering ripe cherry tomatoes, creamy avocado, pine nuts and endive salad all in a flavoursome marinade. It made the palate feel cleansed and ready for something heavier. The Mains were arresting. The Roast Suckling Pig was outstanding. Every bite was pleasure. Salty and hard on the outside and sumptuous and tender within. The Beef with Sweet Potato Puree and Red Wine Sauce was equally impressive. Again, so tender and so flavoursome with the meat cooked to perfection. However, it does come at a cost. The portions are rather boutique when you consider that you are paying sixteen pounds for a small parcel of meat that. unless ordered with a healthy dose of sides. will not satisfy a large appetite. It comes down to quality over quantity, but a little more quantity would go a long way. The whole experience was fantastic and reconfirming that there are restaurants out there that strive to stand out from the crowd. Why else would any restaurant be granted the prestigious title of ‘Best Spanish Restaurant Outside of Spain’?

- September 2006

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