I Sodi

Friday, August 29, 2008 - The menu at I Sodi is small, rotating, and more than ably executed by the chef Michael Genardini, who has cooked at L’Impero and Alto. (Even so, he’s likely never had such a gorgeous kitchen. I Sodi, all pine and tiles, could be the setting for a fantasy Tuscan cooking school.) His lasagna is traditional but sophisticated, with a woodsy top layer that brings to mind chocolate or mushrooms more than boring old hamburger.