Merkato 55

Monday, April 21, 2008 - It's easy to sit back in your armchair and explain to yourself why Merkato might be busy but won't be any good. Crowds? Sure, Meatpacking hell. Phoning it in? An absent star chef, Marcus Samuelsson of Aquavit; a ridiculously non-specific pan-African hodgepodge of a menu; spice heat dialed back for New York palates; a continent's cuisine tidied up and packaged as yet another fusiony gimmick. Except this kitchen is doing really good work.