Adour (Alain Ducasse)

Monday, July 28, 2008 - Adour, as a recent diner put it, “feels like a jewelry box,” rectangular and pewter-colored, with floridly etched glass and burgundy banquettes. Waiters stand along the perimeter, as solemn as tennis ball boys, before dashing hither and thither to perform solicitous acts and utter hushed the-pleasure-is-all-mine-sirs and think-nothing-of-it-ma’ams. The food is exquisitely executed French: duck foie-gras terrine, striped bass in sauce vin jaune, chicken fillet à l’unilatéral. A delicately light zucchini ravioli, floating in foamy vegetable broth, is itself a jewel.