nolita House
our comments
Once the laboratory of Nikola Tesla and, much later, the original location of the Knitting Factory, the house of nolita has a long history of experimentation. But don't expect to see too many beakers lying around here. The comfort-food-heavy menu is crammed with classics like tender, oven-roasted chicken smothered in wild mushroom sage sauce, brick-oven-baked spaghetti with a goose-egg-sized meatball plopped in the middle, and rich four-fromage macaroni and cheese. The kitchen also pumps out a series of brick-oven-baked, cracker-thin pizzas that you'll swear were delivered straight from Rome. Despite such menu hits, the real draw is the international cheese selection, which is paired with wine and available in order of courage, from the not-so-aromatic to nose-curdling stinky. The atmosphere strikes a nice balance between casual and formal: beer is served in the bottle and rock music plays in the background, but ingredients are top quality and service is attentive.- March 2005
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